Saturday, 8 June 2013

I am the worst blogger ever!

Description
Measurment
Reason
Length
16’
Typical length for a 2 seat canoe. Long enough to keep straight, and will fit on my car.
Centre width
34”
Slightly shorter than yoke length (36”), giving me a bit of play so the yoke will fit, even if the canoe ends up a bit wider than anticipated
Depth
 20"
Tested a good height for the seat, so leg room is comfortable, and I am sitting deep enough in the canoe
Formation of bottom
2 pieces
This will allow for a rocker to be made easily, and for better tracking than just a flat bottom
Rocker
3”
Not too big, as we will not be canoeing places that require careful steering
Number of tiles
6 (for now)
Enough to create a decently round hull profile. More might be decided on after the prototype.

Based on these, I created some a smooth surface canoe that matches the canoe that I am interested in, aesthetically. See pictures below.




Then I broke this surface into 6 surfaces that can be made from a sheet of material. This was done by creating sheet metal surfaces. Solidworks assumes that sheet metal can only be bent in one direction (you can create a cylinder type bend, but not a double bend like a saddle). This will be the case even more so with the wood. In Solidworks, sheet metal parts can be flattened, which means I can see how the part should be cut before being bent. Because it creates strange spline like curves, it is nearly impossible to dimension the parts. As a result, I will have to have the drawings printed out in full size, then cut.




I have done some preliminary simulations in solidworks, to figure out how much the hull profile will change the stability, and found that the difference between extremes was minimal (less than 1mm more movement when 200lbs was applied approx 8” away from the centre). For the simulation, I made an approximated half cylinder (the approximations being different hull profiles), and constrained the shape along the centerline at the bottom. I gave the shape a weight, and applied gravity to it. I then had a pressure applied upward along the bottom, up to where the waterline would be. Then I applied a point force eccentrically. The simulation was done with the shape as rigid, so it would only move with itself (in this case, rock along the centerline). I then took note of the maximum displacement (which occurred at the top portion of both walls, as I had predicted). Since the results did not indicate that the shape made a very big difference, even with incredibly high weights (far more than the 200lbs), I will not continue to attempt simulations, unless I can come up with a better way to model it. (I did these on another computer, and forgot to take screen shots. If I feel motivated to do the test again, I will post pictures.)

I was also interested in finding some equations that would give me a good idea of how far plywood can be bent, how much spring back it will have, and basically any other information with regards to bending plywood. All that I found was very vague, and meant more for smaller projects. This surprised me, as making stitch and glue boats are not uncommon. I decided that the best thing to do would be make a prototype. This would be 4’ long and made out of cheap plywood. It would give me a good idea of how the wood acts when it is bent. It also gives me a chance to practice my cutting and gluing skills with cheaper material. The model will also have the benefit of allowing me to test how stable the boat will be in real life (I still need to figure out what this test will look like though…).
I have two long weekends in a row coming up, so I am hoping for some decent weather, so I can cut and assemble the mini canoe!

Next Post: The Creation of a Prototype

Wednesday, 3 April 2013

A Study In Hulls

For the general hull design, there are three profiles that need to be optimized.

The first is the general shape of the boat when you look from the top. How long it will be, how wide will it be at different points along, and will it be symmetrical. A longer length compared to the width will allow the boat to be lighter, and to be better at going straight. Having a shorter length compared to the width will allow the boat to be more stable, and carry more weight. It is also important to keep in mind that the canoe will need to be long enough to fit minimum two people in it comfortably, with some gear in the middle of course. It also cant be too wide, or you would have to lean over to actually use your paddle! A boat that is narrower in the front half than the back half gives less drag, so it makes the boat a bit faster. It is, however, an issue if the boat will ever be canoed by a single person. Usually, when using a two person canoe on your own, the canoeist will sit backwards in the front seat, so that they are closer to the centre of gravity. This means when the single person is using the asymmetrical canoe, the front will be wider than the back, making the canoe even slower!

For this profile, I will be sticking with general canoe sizes, as this will ensure it is the appropriate size, and also allow me to buy a pre-made yoke for my canoe. I will also create a symmetrical canoe, so that I can use my canoe on my own, and also to make the design easier.

The second has to do with the rocker. Rocker is how much of a curve upwards the ends of your boat have compared to the middle. A typical canoe has a 2" rocker. Having a

Tuesday, 26 March 2013

The Adventure Begins

I have decided to go on a design adventure.



I am a bit of an outdoor enthusiast, I really enjoy going back country camping. I am slowly but surely gathering all the equipment I need to make longer trips more possible,  and affordable. One large cost in my adventures is renting a canoe. I decided I should maybe look at buying one in the future, but even used canoes were all well over 500$ for anything in decent condition. I did however, find a great website that could solve my problem.



http://www.southernfriedscience.com/?p=4774



This website details a grad students efforts to create a canoe (in less than a weekend, no less) from scratch. There are two main methods to making a boat. The one he used, and that I will use as well, is stitch and glue. It requires carefully planned strips of plywood that are stitched (zip tied) together, then glued. The other method involves making a canoe mold, and bending a material (epoxy, cedar, aluminium, etc.) over the mold. Being a mechanical engineering student, I decided the former method would be more fun to design, and require a lot less woodworking skill.



I decided not to go with the free pattern that the above blog led to, because it had a completely flat bottom. Though this makes the boat more stable, it also means there is a lot more drag on the hull, making it harder to move through the water. So I will design my own boat instead. I plan on using SolidWorks to optimize the general profile, and cutting and gluing little paper pieces to finalize the plywood shape (unless I think of a smart way to get SolidWorks to go from flat to bent material, instead of the other way around).



In the end, as long as I come up with something useful, I will post my design for free, so anyone can use it.

 Next posts: A Study in Hulls